All Things Shakespeare (Volume I & Volume II)
Author: Kirsten Olsen
Publication date: 2002
Lisandra's Thoughts:
To study the fashion and literature of the 16th century, we must first examine the works of the era’s greatest writer, William Shakespeare. His writings provide a window into the societal norms, values, and beliefs of the time. All Things Shakespeare Volume I & II by Kirsten Olsen serves as an essential encyclopedia, offering a deep dive into Shakespeare's historical texts and the fashion of his day. The book includes:
Interpretations and character analyses
The assumed dates of composition and justifications for those assumptions
The reliability and provenance of the texts
A brief biography of Shakespeare
Descriptions of London theaters during his lifetime, including their construction, stages, audiences, actors, props, and costumes
Discussions of the resemblance of Shakespeare’s historical plays to actual events (Olsen xiii)
In my research on popular fabrics, accessories, and costumes that persist into the 21st century, I have drawn extensively from Olsen's work to interpret and analyze the societal expectations of the 16th century.
Ten Statements About the 16th Century:
Shoes: Commonly made of velvet or leather (Olsen 129).
Fabric: Laws dictated which classes could wear specific fabrics. For instance, those earning €100-€200 per year could use velvet for sleeveless jerkins (vest jackets), doublets, coifs (headwear), partlets (garments), and purses (Olsen 137).
Jewelry: Jewels adorned more parts of the body than they do today, with women embellishing their dresses with brooches—jewels signified one's rank (Olsen 409).
Ruff: Originally a frill at the neck and sleeve edges of a smock or shirt, the ruff reached its greatest width in the late 1580s (Olsen 585).
Courtship: The legal age of consent was twelve for girls and fourteen for boys, necessitating parental consent for those younger (Olsen 147), which explains why Romeo and Juliet are depicted as thirteen.
Money Storage: There was no national bank; money was typically kept close to one’s person or at home, often in bags or small chests called coffers (Olsen 481).
The Ideal Woman: Described as neither an idiot nor exceptionally learned, the ideal woman was low-voiced, industrious, thrifty, obedient, loving, and above all, chaste (Olsen 146).
Children: Infant mortality rates were high, with 2% of all babies dying by the end of their first day, and 12-13% within their first year (Olsen 124), resulting in many orphans.
Religion: Most religious references in Shakespeare’s works pertain to Christian doctrine, although many plays are set in pre-Christian times, referencing Greek and Roman religions (Olsen 556).
Slavery: While African slaves existed in Europe, their numbers were concentrated in Spain and Portugal, with few in Italy and hardly any in England. The English viewed the social order by class as inevitable and natural (Olsen 606).
Items:
16th Century Tote: Literature Meets Fashion
All Things Shakespeare by Kirsten Olsen: Maya Books & Music
Tea Cup: Treehouse Vintage Shop, Orlando, FL
Purple Candle, Serving Tray, & Mirror: Dollar Tree